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Salam wa alaikum! I have now completed my first week in Morocco and I must admit that I’m even more excited now for the rest of the semester than I was before I left. I moved into my homestay on Thursday and I really love the experience. I live with a mother named Amina, her mother (still not sure what her name is), and two host brothers, Ahtah (6) and Achraf (21). We live in an apartment-like dwelling in the old medina. There is quite a language barrier but the family is patient and eager to teach me Darija. Achraf took English in high school but has trouble recalling it. The grandmother only speaks Darija and Amina speaks French at work and Darija at home. Ahtah started school on Friday is learning the English alphabet. He loves to show me that he can say A, B, C, and D correctly. I practice my numbers in Arabic with him. Ahtah also likes to pretend to be Iron Man and the Incredible Hulk with me. Luckily, the language barrier disappears during playtime.
In Morocco, there are four meals. Usually a light breakfast consisting of bread (called Khobz) and butter with coffee or tea. Lunch is eaten around 1 pm and varies but always includes Khobz. A light snack is served around 6 or 7 pm that always includes tea with sweet breads and flatbread, sometimes with honey. The main dinner meal is served later, anytime between 9:30 and midnight. Meals are traditionally served on one big platter and the family all eats off the same plate. Everyone stays in their “zone” and then the middle is up for grabs. Moroccans eat with their hands, but only the thumb and first two fingers of the right hand are used to pick up food to put in your mouth. The Khobz is served with every meal and it often acts as a way to soak up sauce and pick up rice and beans.
Hot water and western toilets are amenities that only some families in the medina have. Many families have Turkish toilets (squatty potties) with a water bucket in lieu of toilet paper. However, some families (like mine) do have Western toilets. Daily showers are uncommon and most Moroccans only bathe once a week at the local hammam (public bathhouse). My host family has hot water but it is expensive so it is greatly conserved. I haven’t experienced the hammam yet but I’ve been told it’s a large steam room and that the process is very cleansing.
School started on Monday and I have already learned so much. Arabic classes are 3 hours and 15 minutes long every day so I have a wealth of new vocabulary to try on my family every time I come home from school. My Migration seminar has started as well. We’re learning about Sub-Saharan migrants in Morocco and their impact on society. On Friday, we will visit and meet with local NGOs who work with migrants and refugees in Morocco. We also have plans to meet with Malian migrants and Young Moroccan activists. Next weekend we will take our first excursion to the villages of Beni Mellal and Fqih Ben Saleh, two cities in a trio of cities known as the “Triangle of Death.” We will stay in Fqih Ben Saleh with host families for 5 days to learn about the extent of migration from this region, as well as local development and traditional rural societies in Morocco. I’m really looking forward to it!
Well that’s enough writing for today, gotta get working on some homework. Beslama!
josh[in]morocco 
This was very interesting to read…Oh, I was your Dad’s speech and drama coach in High School. I enjoy hearing about the customs of the culture. The “eating” story was very interesting. I could picture all of you sitting at the table with one big platter of food and no plates or silverware.
Are you studying about migration for a particular reason, and do they translate the for you as you go? Jo Hary
gosh a blip there….I left out the word, “language.” I can’t even imagine being surrounded continually by people who could not understand me.
Hi! Yes, the meals are interesting and the food is b’neen! (delicious!)
I took a class on Migrants and Refugees last year and immediately became interested in the topic. It is also part of my international studies minor at school.
When Achraf is around, he translates some. Otherwise, my learning revolves around pointing, hand motions, and asking basic questions in Darija like “What is this?” and “Where is the shower?” I watch TV with the grandma sometimes and she points out objects and says the word in Darija.
Thanks for reading! -Josh
Fabulous dialog Josh! Love the details so we can picture being right where you are at. What an experience of a lifetime. I bet your dad would love to have gone with you!! Keep up the great posts.